The Crochet Chain

Welcome to Crochet Basics 101.  Over the next few blogs we will go through the basics of crochet and hopefully inspire you to try this wonderful craft.

The first things to learn is how to hold your crochet hook.  There are two basic ways to hold your hook:

1. Hold your hook like you are holding your pencil, or
2. Hold your hook in the overhand method similar to holding a knife

Either way works great.  I use the pencil hold but ironically I hold my pencil different than most people so really you can modify your holding style a little to whatever works best for you. 

I had to pass on my opinion of the book Granny Squares Now: Dozens of Fresh Takes on a Crochet Classic by Susan Cottrell because I am so inspired by it. 

The book has the following sections:

• Intro and Before You Begin
• Granny Squares and Motifs
• Embellishments
• Granny Square Creations
• Metric Conversion Charts

The "Before You Begin" section is a great introduction to crochet and crochet basics.  It presents the information in an easy to understand method and shows you that crochet is very easy to learn.  It also takes the time to explain crochet, the importance of gauge and simple finishing techniques.  It also points out how patterns can vary dramatically with just small changes in the pattern.  The author explains how easy it is to apply the motifs to your own pattern which is incredibly helpful if this is your first time to make granny squares.


The book presents a wealth of different granny square patterns.  The show the versatility of crochet and how you can use different colours or yarns to create scrumptious squares.  I find the patterns with accompanying photos really inspires your creative side. 

The next section is on embellishments which shows how you can incorporate your granny squares into your wardrobe.  Again the author is very inspiring by showing you how you can use many different colours and textures to spruce up any garment.  


Following this section, there is a great section with creations to make completely out of granny squares.  My favorites include some cozy slippers, a stunning ribbon skirt, an uptown shrug as well as two wonderful afghan throws/rugs.

I just love the fresh new ideas presented in this book.  The author shows you that the granny square technique is simple yet so intricate and stylish.

I think to sum this review up, it is best said in the authors own words....this book truly shows that "today's granny squares aren't square!"  We do stock this book, but if we are sold out we are more than happy to special order it for you!

A craft journal was given to me once and to be honest I never used it.  In retrospect I wish I had used it and kept track of all the yarns I loved and hated.  It would have been a great reference to have.

What is great is that now you can journal on your online blog, on Ravelry or the old fashioned way in a handy dandy notebook (sorry I have a little one so sometimes I have to watch Blues Clues while having my morning tea).

I am now endeavouring to start one and I thought I would share the type of stuff I think is worth keeping track of:

• Title of the Project/Pattern and Where You Got the Idea From
• Type of Yarn Used and Amount
• Colour of the Yarn
• Crochet Hook Size Used
• Gauge/Tension of the Project
• Recommended Care Instructions for the Yarn
• Any Problems with the Pattern or Any Pattern Adjustments
• Notes on Anything You Liked (or Didn't Like)
• A Photo of the Finished Item

To get started crocheting, you just need a crochet hook and some worsted weight yarn.  I find that worsted weight is the best weight to begin with.  I have not crocheted in ages (years I am ashamed to say)...but I have been wanting to get back into it so together we will go through the basics and build on our craft.  Hopefully I am not too rusty!

To learn the basics we should first look at the crochet hook.  There are many sizes from 2.25mm (B/1) to 19mm (S).  Steel hooks are commonly used with the number and are for thin yarns.  I do not use steel hooks or needles as I find wood and plastic much easier to use and I like to work with thicker yarns.  But it is all personal choice, right?  But I know for those of you who like really fine lace projects, you will use steel hooks more often than not.  I have put up a handy hook size conversion chart to help you work out sizes between metric, US and the imperial system.  

To start I would use a size 5mm (H or 6 on the imperial system).  Do not worry about gauge yet as it is more important to learn the stitches first.  

With your yarn choice a great bright or light colour as I find they are easier to see the stitches with in the beginning.  Also, use a smooth yarn like merino or cashmere. Any novelty, furry or fuzzy yarn will just frustrate you in the beginning.  After you get the hang of the stitches you can try to be adventurous and use them.   

Now you have your hook and your yarn...we are ready to begin and learn the basics of crochet!

Quite often we find a yarn we love but we do not know the crochet hook size that would work best.  The following chart will help you determine the crochet hook size best suited for a particular yarn based on the provided knitting needle size on the yarn.

Crochet Hook Size	Knitting Needle Size in US Sizes	Knitting Needle Size in Metric Sizes
B	1	2.25
C	2	2.75
D	3	3.25
E	4	3.5
F	5	3.75
-	6	4
G	7	4.5
h	8	5
i	9	5.5
J	10	6
K	10.5	6.5

The following is a list of common abbreviations used in crochet patterns.  This will helps us get ready for upcoming projects. Please let us know if we have forgotten any by adding in a comment below this post.  We will then add it to the list!

alt			alternate
approx			approximately
beg			beginning/begin
bet			between
BL			back loops
bo			booble
BP			back post
BPdc			back post double crochet
BPsc			back post single crochet
BPtr			back post treble crochet
CA			colour A
CB			colour B
CC			contrasting colour
CL			cluster
cont			continue
dc			double crochet
dc2tog			double crochet two stitches together
dec			decrease/decreases/decreasing
dtr			double treble
FL			front loops
foll			follow/follows/following
FP			front post
FPdc			front post double crochet
FPsc			front post single crochet
FPtr			front post treble crochet
hdc			half double crochet
inc			increase/increases/increasing
lp			loops
lps			loops
MC			main colour
p			picot
patt			pattern/patterns
pc			popcorn
pm			place maker
prev			previous
rem			remain/remaining
rep			repeat/repeats
rnd			round/rounds
rnds			rounds
RS			right side
sc			single crochet
sc2tog			single crochet 2 stitches together
sk			skip
Sl st			slip stitch
sp			space
sps			spaces
st			stitch/stitches
sts			stitches
tch			turning chain
t-ch			turning chain
tbl			through back loop
tog			together
tr			treble crochet
trtr			triple treble crochet
WS			wrong side
yo			yarn over
yoh			yarn over hook

Not too long ago I was at the doctor's for a check up and found out that I had Carpal Tunnel syndrome.  The doctor uttered those unimaginable, dreaded words...."You must take a break from knitting and crocheting!"  

My Carpal Tunnel is related to my pregnancy but I know many people develop it as a result of repetitive finger and thumb motions.  When I got home that day, I quickly researched what causes carpal tunnel and what can be done about it because I could not imagine not being able to knit or crochet!  


Carpal tunnel syndrome is caused by abnormal pressure on the median nerve in the wrist.  The median nerve rests in the "tunnel" shaped structure called the Carpal Tunnel.  This tunnel is filled to the brim with tendons, ligaments, blood vessels and the median nerve. There is not much room left so when any of the structures in this "tunnel" become enlarged and swollen, pressure is exerted onto the median nerve which results in pain, burning, numbness, tingling or weakness.  These symptoms can progress to the point where an individual loses strength in their hand as well as possibly losing the ability to make a fist or pick up objects.  


The most common cause of Carpal Tunnel syndrome is repetitive motions when the hand is flexed at the wrist.  These motions exert pressure on the carpal tunnel area and the tendons and ligaments react by swelling, thus putting pressure on the median nerve.  


Causes of Carpal Tunnel syndrome include prolonged computer keyboard typing, driving long distance, use of tools, fluid retention, cysts, tumours, wrist fractures and arthritis.  In my case, the swelling associated with pregnancy caused my Carpal Tunnel.

Some theories state that some individuals might be at higher risk of developing Carpal Tunnel syndrome due to their genetics.  Basically, their genes determine the size of the Carpal Tunnel therefore some of us may just have a smaller amount of "room" in our tunnel compared to others.


In my case I was told to use a wrist splint to keep my wrist mobilized.  This gives the area a good rest and kept me from doing anything that may irritate the condition.  I also used this when I slept as I found that I would wake up with that infamous "pins and needles" feeling in my hand.  

The doctor advised me to do some stretching and isometric exercises to help the wrist and prevent the condition from worsening.  He also mentioned that when I do start my knitting up again, that I should take frequent breaks.

I did some research to find what other things have worked for Carpal Tunnel sufferers who are knitters and crocheters.  One site recommended that you keep several projects going at once that used different gauges and types of yarns and needles....I was really happy to read this suggestions as my husband always laughs at how many projects I have going at one time.  He always asks..."why do you not do one at a time?"...I told him he just would not understand unless he learned to knit!


Another suggestion for when your pain is really bad, is to do a project that uses an elastic yarn versus a non-elastic yarn until the pain subsides.  You can also use circular needles versus straight during a really painful time with your Carpal Tunnel.  Circular needles tend to take the weight off your hands and wrists in comparison to straight needles.

Other suggestions include knitting and crocheting in a warmer room as you are more likely to develop joint stiffness in cold environments.  Also, improving ones posture and making sure you are not bending your wrist too much while knitting and crocheting can help avoid putting too much pressure on the area.


Remember knitting and crochet should be beneficial to your health...not harmful!  So if you are experiencing painful episodes in your hands and wrists like I did, then you should see your doctor to be properly diagnosed.  

Thankfully, in my case, my symptoms should start subsiding now that I have had my gorgeous little one.  So I will be able to continue my knitting and crocheting soon....I just have to first figure out how to do it without falling asleep (since I am bit sleep deprived at the moment!).

I know this is a debate that comes up sometimes in knitting/crochet circles.  I actually have a friend who loves knitting so much that she will not even consider trying crochet (though she does do some of her edgings in crochet).  I personally love both crochet and knitting.  So I thought I would point out the differences for those who are trying to decide which craft to learn first.

• The most obvious difference is that crochet uses a hook whereas knitting uses at least two needles.  The benefit of this for crocheters is that there is only one "active" stitch...whereas in knitting you have a whole row of "active" stitches...so you can get yourself in trouble easier with knitting and losing a stitch. 
• If you drop a stitch in crochet you do not have to worry about a "run" in your fabric like you do with knitting.  Of course dropping a stitch will still cause you issues, but it is not always as disastrous as when you drop a stitch in knitting. (How disastrous this is may be a real matter of personal opinion...I just find I will freak out more with a drop stitch in knitting)
• In knitting each stitch is supported by the stitch in the row above whereas in crochet each stitch is support by the stitches on either side of it, so this means if you have a whole or break in your yarn, your crochet will actually remain intact (whereas in knitting the fabric can quickly unravel leaving you with a tricky situation).

• Cylindrical patterns are easy to make with crochet using one hook, whereas in knitting you will need circular needles or a bunch of double sided needles which can get confusing for some (though I promise, the more you use these needles the easier it becomes)
• With crochet you can make multi-dimensional projects easily because new stitches can be made almost anywhere in your project.  I think this is why there are so many embellishments on knitting which are made with crochet (I am thinking of this gorgeous pattern I want to do at some point that has these great crocheted pieces on it but the yarn is still sitting in my stash...another one of those projects I tell my husband I will get to one day soon).
• The last point reminds me that crocheted items are full of "texture" so you will not ever find yourself crocheting socks (as no one likes walking around with "bumpy" socks).  Knitting results in a smoother fabric, so all your knitted socks will feel divine on your feet!

• Knitting can easily be done by hand or machine, whereas crochet is strictly done by hand.
• Finishing a crocheted piece is very simple...just cut your thread and draw the yarn through the final loop.  It is over in seconds.  In knitting you must bind off all your stitches one by one, then draw the yarn through the last stitch.
• Crochet will use approximately one third more (about 33% more) yarn than knitting for a project of the same size and dimensions
• Crocheted fabric has less give and stretch than knitted fabric and can be sometimes be more dense. (This makes sense when you think of the structure and stability of crocheted stitches and their slight independence from the other stitches and rows)
• A friend of mine who mainly crochets has said that crocheting takes less time, in comparison to knitting, when making a jumper....I am a "fence sitter" for this statement because I would think it really depends on the exact pattern and so forth.

So which craft is better?  NEITHER!!!  I think they are BOTH wonderful and therapeutic and I would recommend everyone to try them both.  

What is a doily for exactly?

A doily is an ornamental mat that was originally crafted in the UK during 17th century.  They were made to protect wood on tables from being scratched or damaged...so I guess you can think of them as original "coasters" to place your drinks upon.   


Doilies have incredibly intricate patterns that resemble the catersian coordinates system in mathematics.  They are usually made with the smallest of crochet hooks...my hands just ache thinking about it!

The craft of crocheting doilies is not seen that often and it is often considered very old-fashioned, but thankfully there are plenty of enthusiasts who keep the art going.  A doily is an absolutely beautiful piece of art...so I hope we crocheters keep it going for generations to come.

I remember as a girl I had quite a few gorgeous, but very delicate doilies and I really loved them (I wonder what happened to them??).  I think doilies can make any decor more elegant!

It is National Crochet Month!  To celebrate we should pull out our yarn and get hooking! 

Did you know that crochet is basically like a continuous knot that travels through the entire project? 

Crochet is generally worked in rows or in the round.  With crochet you can make some incredible things with the smallest of hooks imaginable.  The resultant crocheted fabric is not as stretchy as knitted fabric.

Granny Square patterns are a fabulous way to use up any leftover yarn you have from other projects.  You can use these to make some wonderful blankets and afghans!