Our Yarns About Yarn

You can pretty much use anything that is flexible, or pliable enough to wrap around a needle or hook and hold stitches without falling apart. This encompasses a whole range of things from the ordinary to the unique.  



Fibre: Strings or filaments that can be spun together

Yarn: Fibres spun together into one useable strand

Fabric:  The result of worked yarn (whether by knitting, crochet, weaving, etc)



Often, someone will say a yarn knits with a good hand.  This just means that the yarn feels great and is easy to work with as it is made into a fabric. A yarn will not have a good hand if it tangles easily, breaks easily or if you struggle heaps with it as you work your project.



The appearance of a yarn all depends on the fibre used and its processing.  Some yarns are obviously "fuzzier" and will therefore not be as smooth in appearance.  For example, angora will always be heaps fuzzier than a wool yarn.  Novelty yarns are usually a combination of lots of different fibres or materials that can be bumpy or smooth...making the resultant fabrics very unique. These yarns are always fun to try, but many may not give you good stitch definition.

Slub yarns are a great yarn where one ply is spun tightly while a second ply is allowed to stay uneven.  Crepe yarn is a slub yarn that has tiny "lumps" whereas boucle yarn has big "lumps" of the uneven ply.

Eyelash or fur yarns have "bits" that hang off the main ply of yarn.  These "bits" stick off the worked fabric giving it a furry appearance.


Chenille is a term used to describe a particular process in which the yarn is made.  It is usually cut from a specially woven fabric.  It has short lengths of fibres placed between two core fibres which are then twisted together.  The short fibres stand at right angles to the core fibres which give the yarn its characteristic texture and softness. Because of the way it is produced chenille fabric will look different in one direction compared to another and the fabric does not have much give.  Chenille yarns also twist when knitted because of the yarn construction....this is why I would not recommend a chenille yarn to someone who is just learning to knit. But chenille projects are one of my favorites because they are so soft and warm in the winter!

This month’s addiction is the fabulous environmentally friendly BANANA YARN.  Knitter's Addiction has sourced this yarn from a small community in Nepal.  The lovely women of this community make this yarn as well as our great sari silk yarns. 

Banana fiber yarn has the luster of silk and a soft, papery feel.  Every time I play around with a skein, I am amazed that it comes from the banana palm tree!  I have knitted a few swatches and I find this yarn very easy to work with.  The knitted fabric is silky and feels cool to the touch.  I think this yarn would make great summer sweaters because it does not seem to trap any heat against the skin. To me, banana yarn is reminiscent of a rayon yarn.

 

Surprisingly, banana trees were the "original" cotton used for many centuries.  Once cotton was made more affordable and readily available, banana fabrics seemed to disappear.  Banana fiber yarn has come back in fashion because it is a renewable, sustainable, environmentally friendly yarn. 

How do we get the fibers? 

The process of making this yarn involves at least 3 women.  The first woman prepares the fibers.  The decaying layers of the tree stalk are harvested to remove the fibers through water soaking.  So only the aged bark is used and the rest of the tree is left alone to grow.  During the soaking, the chlorophyll structures are dissolved and all that remains is the cellulose fibers.  These fibers are then crushed by hand to soften them up for spinning on a traditional charka wheel.  Once the fibers are sorted and spun by a second woman, the yarn is then hand dyed in brilliant colours by a third woman...the banana fibers just saturate with colour brilliantly! This woman then also puts the yarn into skeins that are ready to sell.  

There are actually three layers in the decaying bark of the banana tree:

1. The outer layer which is the toughest and is usually used for weaving items
2. The middle layer
3. The inner layer which are the silkiest fibers that are used for spinning yarns and making fine clothing

Your purchase of our banana fiber yarns helps this Nepalese community and encourages fair trade.  The women that make these yarns earn a fair price for their hard work so that they can support their families and educate their children.  Another great thing about their efforts is that they are keeping a traditional art alive.  It would be sad to see such amazing handiwork disappear...so using this yarn helps keep these skills and traditions going.

Tips for using Banana Yarns:

• Since every skein varies from the dyeing process, it is best to use 2 skeins at once in your knitting....this will keep it more even looking.
• You can play around with gauge/tension because the thickness of the strand can vary within each skein.  This variation is due to the hand spinning technique the women use.  I have found that a size 6mm-8mm needle works really well and the fabric created has a lovely drape similar to most of our summer fabrics.
  
• Like sari silk yarns you must be prepared to come across the odd knot or a little debris...when you do come across anything like this you just have to think of all the women who have touched this yarn and you will immediately feel connected to them.  I always wonder what each skein's story is!?

Since you know banana yarn is environmentally friendly and each skein purchased helps a Nepalese community...you can't help but become addicted to this yarn!

Yarn is a very broad term.  A simple definition for yarn is a continuous length of intertwined and interlocked fibres.  But we all know that yarn is a bit more complex for knitters and crocheters.  There are so many types of yarn which vary in thickness, colours, textures, etc.  Yarns can be classified by ply, weight, purpose, source fibre, texture, colour and pattern.

The simplest classification that I give the many types of yarn is whether they are animal, vegetable or mineral.  The first two are obvious but the mineral is what I use for the many synthetics that are available.  (I guess you call tell I enjoy old classic shows like the Pirates of Penzance?!)


There are many yarns which are a combination of these different types.  Combining one fibre with another type of fibre is one way manufacturers can improve the quality or strengthen the resultant yarn.  It is also another way of making a luxury fibre available at a cheaper price.  For example, angora yarn is usually a combination of angora with another fibre such as wool.  The angora/wool combination is used to create a more stable yarn that retains the wonderfully soft quality of the 100% angora yarn yet does not shed as easily.  

Over the next few blogs I am going to look at some fabulous types of yarns available which are animal, vegetable and mineral in origin.  I will also look at the range of great eco-friendly yarns that are available and growing in popularity as we become more conscious of the state of the world.

In the spirit of Easter bunnies and Easter chocolate I thought I would quickly point out the great reasons you should indulge yourself this weekend with some delicious chocolate....

• Scientists say that dark chocolate is good for your heart...so eat some withouth feeling guilty!  For those of you who want to know how this is possible...chocolate is full of antioxidants which help prevent heart disease and cancer.  The darker the chocolate the better it is for you!
• Eating chocolate makes your body release endorphins which are the "feel good" chemical in your body.  They make you feel great and are a natural pain reliever (I think buying a fabulous yarn and working on my knitting does this for me too!)
• Science has shown that eating 50g of chocolate a day helps fight off the effects of chronic fatigue (I find that I can always knit even when I am exhausted...so yarn must have the same effect too)
• Science has also shown that chocolate contains a natural cough suppressant....so if you are fighting off a nasty cough try some chocolate!
• There was also another study which suggests that chocolate eaters may live longer than those that do not eat chocolate
• Darker chocolates do not affect your cholesterol levels like milk chocolates do...so if you must be health conscious this weekend then go ahead and indulge in just a little dark chocolate.
• Chocolates have yet to be proven to cause tooth decay

Most of us try really hard to avoid sweets and chocolate...but I think for one day we can all indulge just a little!  It is like when you find a great yarn that you just have to have...you have to be "bad" sometimes and give in to that craving...how else will our yarn stashes get filled??!!

New Zealand possum yarn is a fabulous new addition to our product range this month.  It is incredibly soft and is up to 40% warmer than wool.  

Many people who live outside of Australia and New Zealand may not know much about the possum.  If you live in North America you may be thinking it is the animal known as the Opossum...but they are actually completely different animals.  The first photo below is the North American Opossum and the second photo is the Possum found in Australia and New Zealand.


The possum in New Zealand is wrecking havoc on its fragile, native eco-system.  It was originally introduced in the 1830s to establish a fur industry (so even though it is called a New Zealand possum...it really is not from New Zealand).  Initially, about one hundred possums were brought over from Australia because their furs were found to be one of the softest in the world.  When demand fell and the industry stopped, the animals were just released into the countryside.

The population of possum quickly increased and were labeled a national pest in 1936.  Their numbers are now considered to be of epidemic proportions as they cover over 92% of the country and number well over 9 million.  It is an astounding population number considering that New Zealand is home to only 3.5 million people and 50 million sheep.  

Possums have no natural predators in New Zealand and have put many other species under threat because they are destroying the natural habitat.  Since they do not have a natural predator, the possum has been able to grow bigger and reproduce at a very high rate.  Possum are native to Australia where they do have natural predators, so they are naturally controlled in Australia and are not causing the same problems.
New Zealand possums munch and eat their way through eggs, young birds and about 21500 tonnes of vegetation nightly.  The possum is actually quite aggressive and will fight if disturbed.

Many trees, plants and birdlife (ie. the Kiwi bird and the Pohutukawa) are under serious threat of extinction because of the possum.  It is feared that over 70% of New Zealand's extinctions are from the habitat loss caused by the possum and this destruction is continuing.  The World Wildlife Fund even sanctions the use of possum fur as a means to controlling this precarious threat.


The only way to control the possum numbers is through selling possum products.  Every possum removed means a little less native habitat is destroyed and the native animals have more of a chance at survival.

In an ideal world, this animal would never have been introduced into New Zealand.  But it was and it now must be controlled before it is too late and the eco-system of New Zealand is completely and forever destroyed.  You may wonder whether they can just move the animal back to Australia?  Well it is not possible because over time the possum in New Zealand have actually grown in size in comparison to their Australia relative and because of their aggressive nature they would wipe out the native possum species in Australia.  ((As an aside here...a lot of native Australian possums are actually an endangered species))

Possum yarn is actually similar to polar bear fur, but has one important difference.  Possum fur was adapted to climates that were much warmer and actually dispels heat (versus trapping it like polar bear fur does).  The fibres are actually quite short so it has been found that a better yarn is produced if it is mixed with quality merino wool.  This ensures that the possum fibres best qualities are retained.  You will find that the knitted fabric made with possum yarn is wonderfully soft, keeps your warm in cool weather and cooler in warm weather.  The fibres actually even dry quicker than most fibres.  
Care of your possum yarns is very easy.  Hand washing is the best method to ensure you do not accidentally felt your project.  You may want to read my blog on How to Care For Your Lovely Cashmere as the instructions for possum yarn are the same.  

Possum yarns are incredibly durable and will last a very long time (the fibres naturally resist pilling and remain incredibly fluffy over time).  You can easily use this yarn in many knitting and crochet projects.  If you are interested in a particularly hand dyed colourway please ask us as we can always do special orders for you. 

Imagine you have found a fabulous yarn you just have to have but you do not have a pattern yet...(I am always in this situation because I always buy a great yarn first and then search for a pattern later)....so what do you do?


We all get stuck in this situation of trying to work out how much yarn to buy without having a pattern yet.  Over the years I have worked out a little system for myself and I will share it with you.  Please keep in mind that these are just ROUGH estimates so the amount you need will vary depending on the exact pattern you choose to make.  The amount of the pattern you choose may be less or may be more.  If you are ever in doubt about the amount you need always get extra as you do not want to run out of yarn before you finish you project.  The gauge/tension on the chart is for knitting in stockinette stitch. 

There are some calculations so that you can adjust these numbers depending on what sort of pattern you are doing or for those of us who want to use the yarn for a crochet pattern.

• For cardigans add 100-200 extra yards to your estimate depending on your yarn's thickness
• For sweaters with turtlenecks or cowls add 150-250 extra yards depending on your yarn's thickness
• For very oversided fitting sweaters add about 20-25% extra yarn to your estimate
• For patterns with cables or bobbles all over add about 30-35% extra yarn to your estimate
• For crocheting add about 25-30% extra yarn to these estimates

Scarf	Gauge/Tension	Small 15cm x 90cm	Large  20cm x 140cm
	33 to 36 sts per 10cm	550-600 yards	800-1000 yards
	28 to 32 sts per 10cm	450-500 yards	700-750 yards
	21 to 27 sts per 10cm	350-400 yards	500-600 yards
	16 to 20 sts per 10cm	250-300 yards	350-450 yards
	12 to 15 sts per 10cm	200-250 yards	250-300 yards
Sweater	Gauge/Tension	Child  S - M - L	Adult  S - M - L -XL
	33 to 36 sts per 10cm	900 - 1200 - 1550 yards	2200 - 2600 - 3000 - 3500 yards
	28 to 32 sts per 10cm	700 - 1000 - 1300 yards	1750 - 2100 - 2450 - 2850 yards
	21 to 27 sts per 10cm	550 - 750 -1000 yards	1400 - 1600 - 1900 - 2200 yards
	16 to 20 sts per 10cm	400 - 600 - 900 yards	1200 - 1400 - 1600 - 1900 yards
	12 to 15 sts per 10cm	300 - 450 - 600 yards	900 - 1000 - 1200 - 1400 yards
Afghan/Blanket	Gauge/Tension	Small  65cm x 65cm	Large  150cm x 150cm
	33 to 36 sts per 10cm	1700-1900 yards	4000-5000 yards
	28 to 32 sts per 10cm	1400-1600 yards	3500-4000 yards
	21 to 27 sts per 10cm	1200-1400 yards	3100-3500 yards
	16 to 20 sts per 10cm	1100-1200 yards	2800-3200 yards
	12 to 15 sts per 10cm	900-1100 yards	2600-3000 yards

We found these two great quizzes and we thought we would share the links with you.  It is really funny to see what yarn you are!  On one I was mohair and on the other I was cashmere.  It was uncanny!  Have a go and see what you are. 

They both refer to the resultant knitted (or crocheted) fabric based on the numer of stitches per unit width.  For example, most knitting patterns will give you a gauge in numbers or stitches and rows, such as 24 stitches and 28 rows per 10cm.  When choosing a yarn, you will want to pay attention to its gauge/tension.  This will help with substituting yarns.

Remember with yarn:
The thicker the yarn, the fewer stitches per 10cm
The thinner the yarn, the more stitches per 10cm



Yes!  Afterall, we want our project to have the correct measurements so we have to have the correct gauge.  To work out whether the yarn you are using will work well in a pattern's recommended gauge, you should make a swatch.  If you do not pay attention to your yarn's gauge you will wind up with a project that is too short or too long and the measurements are all out of whack and crazy.

 
There are some instances where your gauge is not as important...such as blankets, baby clothes, some scarves and bags.  I do not think most people will panic if their blanket comes out a little too big because their gauge was off.  This gives you more freedom when choosing a yarn for these types of projects.

I have more information on swatches on my blogs Knitting Notions & Purls of Wisdom and The Crochet Chain.

Sometimes we will need to convert some of your measurements or amounts from one measuring system to another.  All you need is a calculator and the following conversion rates to help you. 

If you know the grams, multiply by 0.0353 to get the ounces
If you know the ounces, multiply by 28.35 to get the grams

If you know the metres, multiply by 1.093 to get the yards
If you know the yards, multiply by 0.914 to get the metres

If you know the centimetres, multiply by 0.394 to get the inches
If you know the inches, multiply by 2.54 to get the centimetres

Please let us know if you still need any assistance

Ply is the number of strands and fibres spun or woven together to create your yarn's thickness.  To see what I am talking about, you can look closely at the construction of some your yarns by just slightly unwinding and pulling it apart.

When you look at your yarn closely you may find it is made of multiple plies of the same or varying thickness.  It all depends on what kind of yarn the spinner wanted to create.  For example, a lot of novelty or fancy yarns use different fibres and threads to create some amazing yarns with varying thicknesses.  The first photo is a camel yarn I pulled apart and I could have pulled it apart even further as it has lots of plies.  The second photo is a fancy yarn I pulled apart to show the different types of fibres and their varying thicknesses and textures.  It is amazing how many different kinds of yarns can be created!

 

The term ply can sometimes get us in trouble with our knitting because it can be used to describe yarn weight standards.  To explain this further…

Different countries use different yarn weight categories to specify different standard gauge ranges.  For example, some use terms like cobweb weight, lace weight, sport weight, worsted weight and bulky.  Whereas other countries actually use a weight scale that is based on the term "ply" but they are not actually referring to the number of strands woven together in the yarn.  This can create a lot of confusion because a 12 ply yarn may be made of 12 plies but does not knit at the standard yarn weight called 12 ply. This is why I personally go straight for the recommended gauge and yardage required of the pattern I want to do and find a yarn that fits within this range.  (There is a bit more to yarn substitution which I will explain further in another blog post soon!)

Here is an average for different yarn weights and possible tensions that will fall within their range.  You will find that there are many, many variations to this and it can get very confusing.  There are also many factors that come into play here such as yarn texture and smoothness.  I think it is best to sometimes ignore all of this standard yarn weight business and just rely on your yarn's gauge, your pattern's gauge and the type of drape you want in your finished project.

Australia Yarn Weights	USA Yarn Weights	UK Yarn Weights	Tension Range
-	-	Cobweb	33-40 sts
2 Ply	Lace	Baby	27-34 sts
3 Ply	Sock	Baby	27-34 sts
4 Ply	Fingering	Baby	27-34 sts
5 Ply	Sport	Lightweight	23-26 sts
8 Ply	Worsted	Double Knit	20-24 sts
10 Ply	Worsted	Aran	16-22 sts
12 Ply	Worsted	Triple Knit	16-22 sts
14 Ply	-	Sport	16-20 sts
16 Ply	Super Chunky	Bulky	12-15 sts
20 Ply	Bulky	Chunky	6-11 sts

To explain why the "Ply Weighting Scale" can get you in trouble, you should think about the different fibre composition of different yarns.  For example, a 12 ply wool is going to look different than a 12 ply alpaca yarn or a 12 ply cashmere yarn or even a 12 ply synthetic yarn.  All of these yarns are 12 ply because they are spun or woven with 12 plies yet they will vary in thickness due to their composition.  The 12 ply wool will be thicker in comparison to a 12 ply cashmere yarn.  So if you substituted the cashmere in place of the wool and you did not consider the gauge, you will find your project may end up being too loosely knit. (Another great reason for knitting up a swatch with all your projects)

The reason there is this variation is that different fibres naturally have different thicknesses.  For example, a wool fibre can be an average of between 20 to over 24 microns in thickness whereas cashmere is usually 13 to 19 microns.  So in the case of comparing a 12 ply yarn in wool and cashmere, think of twelve wool fibres together next to twelve cashmere fibres together….the wool will naturally be thicker.  Does it make more sense now on how using a ply weighting scale can be tricky?

The following photo shows yarns that all are knit within the range of Australian Standard Yarn Weight 12 Ply yet each one has a different ply (or fibre count).  Some have less than 12 plies yet still are considered in the 12 Ply Yarn Weight. So does it make sense know on how you can get in trouble with the term ply? 

If you are like me and you like being adventurous in your knitting, you can play around with the different plies and a project you would like to do.  For example, some people do like to knit loosely as it gives the fibres more room to settle and move around...or they just like how the fabric comes out compared to a tighter knit.  In the case of cashmere, if you give the fibres more room to move, this can sometimes help with creating the lovely "halo" effect.  This effect is called blooming and I explain this further on a post on another blog "How To Care For Your Lovely Cashmere".

The best method to see how you want your project to look is to knit a swatch and the wash it several times.  After it has completely dried see if you like the results.  If you do like it, then go ahead and start your fabulous project. If you do not like it, then you can start over using a smaller knitting needle and knit another swatch.  You may be surprised at what you find with different yarns!

Just as an aside…when I knit up an afghan or blanket I usually like looser stitches as it gives the item more movement....but this is a personal choice and you may like it a completely different way.  This is one reason knitting is such an amazing art...you can create endless unique masterpieces by varying your tension!