Our Yarns About Yarn

Substituting Yarn and How This Opens Up a Whole Range of Possibilities for Your Project: Part 1

Wed, 30 Sep 2009 05:41:00 GMT

It happens to us all...we get the latest knitting magazine and we see a pattern we just have to do. But we do not like the original yarn or we have a whole stash full of yarn already. So what do we do?

First, look at the pattern and find the pattern's recommended gauge. Now look at the original yarn the pattern uses. For example, let's say the original pattern uses an 8 ply wool with a gauge of 20 sts per 10 cm (4 inches). What do we do now? How do we know which yarn in our stash will work best as a substitute? How do we know we have enough yarn?

There are a few factors to consider when substituting yarn such as:

Some of the specifics of the original yarn the pattern calls for (ie. fibre content, gauge, how it handles, etc.)
Gauge of the pattern
Length Required (in metres or yards)
Texture of the yarn (both the original and for the look you want to achieve)
Drape of the fabric in the finished item
Is the yarn going to produce any strange results you need to consider (ie. felting, blooming, etc)

The next few blogs will look at how to substitute yarns successfully. Knowing how to substitute will open up endless possibilities for all of the projects you want to make....it will also help you clear out that stash of gorgeous yarns you have collected over the years! We want to help you make your project ideas reality....all of them are within your reach!

Label Astray? What to Do With and Without Yarn Labels

Mon, 21 Sep 2009 09:45:00 GMT

How Do You Read a Yarn Label?

Dye Lot - This is an important bit of information if you will be using more than one skein or ball in the same colour. You want to make sure they all come from the same dye lot to ensure your project is consistent. You may not think there is a difference but once your project is done you may wind up with different shades of the same colour which stick out like a sore thumb

Fiber Content - This is good to know if you are knitting for someone else or if you suffer from allergies. But for most of us this doesn't really matter....it only matters if the yarn feels and look beautiful! This info can also be helpful for knowing how to care for your finished item.

Washing Instructions - Important for those of you who are looking for a machine washable yarn. I almost always hand wash all of my knitted and crocheted items....but there are a few yarns which are incredibly resilient and can handle the toughest stuff you can throw at them! I will be posting a blog soon on what the little icons on the labels mean...this will be found in my blog How To Care For Your Cashmere and Other Yarns.

Suggested Needle or Hook Size - This is important to know if you are using the yarn as a substitute to the original yarn in a pattern. But this is not as important as the suggested gauge/tension. (See the next point below). It is important to point out that some vintage yarns refer to sizes of hooks and knitting needles which may not relate to the current standard sizes. (If you are unsure...just make a swatch to see how the yarn works!)

Suggested Gauge/Tension - This is very important as a "gauge" to whether the yarn will fit the project you want to do. For example, you will not want to accidentally buy a thick yarn when you are going to be doing a lace weight project or vice versa. The reason I say this is a "gauge" is because we all knit and crochet differently and a suggested gauge/tension is just that...SUGGESTED! It is just a place to start. You may find you work the yarn better at a smaller or larger tension....or you just find the fabric has a better drape at a larger or smaller tension. This is perfectly fine to do. Some knitters/crocheters like to stick exactly with the recommended gauge/tension...but others loooovvvvveeee to stretch their limits and go beyond what is recommended....I say if you do a swatch and you like the results, then go for it! Just remember you do need to follow the gauge/tension your pattern calls for (but we will discuss that in another blog post soon!). If you want to try to see how your yarn works at a different tension I suggest knitting a swatch in the following way: first knit/crochet with the recommended needle/hook, once you have done about 14cm switch to a different size needle and knit/crochet another 14cm. Now you can have a play with your swatch to see which size you liked using better.

Length of Yarn (in yards or metres) - This is important to know to ensure you have enough yarn for your project.

Weight of the Ball or Skein (in grams or ounces) - This is not really that important. If you substitute yarns based on weight (and not length) you may get yourself into heaps of trouble because you may not have enough yarn. A ball of thick yarn that weighs 50g is going to have less yardage than a ball of thin yarn that weighs 50g. The one useful thing with having weight information, though, is that you can kind of get an idea of the yarn thickness if you do not have any other information on the yarn size.

Now What If You Do Not Have a Label?

If you find a ball or skein in your stash and you have no idea what it is, there are some tricks to help you out.

To find out what it is made of, you can burn it to see if it is mainly animal fibers. Animal fibers curl up and break apart when burned (and they also have that distinct burning hair smell). Synthetics usually smell like plastic! But if the yarn is a combination of fibers, this trick does not really work. So the best thing to do is to always hand wash and assume it could be anything! One good trick for keeping track of your yarns is to keep a journal of all that you buy. If you record all the manufacturer's or the label info in the beginning, then you do not have to worry about the information at all.

If you need to know the length of your ball of yarn you can do this by positioning two chairs exactly a metre or yard apart. Now wind the yarn around the chairs until you run out. Next, you just count the number of threads on each side of the chairs (or count one side and multiply by 2). This will give you an approximately length of your ball of yarn.

If you need to know what size needles or hook to use, look at the thickness of the yarn and compare it to another yarn in your stash that you know the gauge for. Alternatively, you can try to guess the size needed and make a swatch. Once you start your swatch you will quickly know if you have guessed closely to what the label may have told you.

Are Sari Silk Yarns Really Silk?

Sun, 06 Sep 2009 07:30:00 GMT

Recycled sari silk is one of my favorite yarns. I always feel as though the yarn tells a story because so many women have touched these fibers and it has traveled so far to be on my knitting needles or crochet hook. It has had an adventure before it becomes the garment you are making.

Saris fabrics in South Asia are made mainly of silk, cotton, rayon and a few other synthetics. The high quality fabrics are silk whereas the rayon or synthetic fabrics are the cheaper substitute. With this in mind, when you purchase recycled sari silk yarns you may find that you yarn is a mixture of these fibers or it may be 100% silk.

Before I go any further, having a recycled sari silk yarn that is not 100% silk does not mean the yarn is any less fabulous. It really is a personal choice and can depend on individual skeins...as crafters and yarn lovers we all know you can have some lovely yarns that are made with cotton or rayon...so really it is like comparing apples to apples in a sense. Some people may prefer to have cotton or rayon because they do not like wearing yarns made from animal products.

But if you are wanting your recycled sari silk to be silk, then it is important to know how to tell the difference.

The first thing you can do is to smell your yarn....the more silk you have the more your yarn will smell "funny"...after all silk is an animal product so you should not be surprised about this. I have had friends talk about the smell of some recycled sari yarns thinking it was from some cleaner used on the fibers....well actually it is from the silk (if it is silk). (I love these homemade natural cinamon candles that my friend makes and I have them not too far from where I keep my silk yarns because it helps counteract the smell of the silk)

The second method is to burn your yarn. This is a bit unrealistic when you are out buying yarn at a shop or online. I actually test my recycled sari silk yarns for their content often but I do this in a very safe way. For those pyromaniacs out there you can tell your fiber content by the way it burns (yes this works for other yarns too!).

If your yarn is an animal fiber it will burn reluctantly with a crackling sound. The fire should die out easily or even on its own. You will have that distinct "burning human hair" smell. If your yarn is silk it will turn into silvery clumps that crumble easily (make sure it is cool before touching!).

If you yarn is a plant fiber (ie. cotton), it will burn really well with a very bright flame. The fibers will still glow when the flame is put out. It will smell like burned paper (so it will not be a noxious smell like animal fibers produce). But remember, rayon is a plant fiber!

If it is synthetic, then the yarn will burn like plastic. They usually burn really well and when cooled the "mess" that was your yarn will be a hard clump that does not crumble. The smell will be like burning plastic as well....so it will stink and the fumes could be harmful.

We tested our sari silk yarns when we got them in and they silk. The smell before and after burning gave it away...not to mention the mess of silvery clumps I had disintegrating everywhere! But since we work with a community in Nepal for our Recycled Sari Silk yarn, we expect that the odd skein may have a few rayon fibers in it just because of the way the yarns are produced. I am sure this is an issue with all recycled sari silk yarns. After all, most of the communities get their remnants from a factory and they cannot afford to test every fiber that passes into their hands. Regardless, the women we help try to give us an amazing product and we have been very happy with their results. I am just in love with the solid colours (especially the teal and dark pink colour).

This month we will be releasing a new 100% silk yarn that comes from a community in India. This yarn is carded much better than the sari silk yarns so it is a smoother, finer yarn. I am very excited to get my hands on this yarn. The colours are vibrant which is similar to the sari silk so I am sure you will love it too! Silkworms produce the silk when they create their cocoons (photo below).

If you choose to ever burn your yarn to test it PLEASE be very careful because if you yarn has any synthetic materials in it, the fumes from burning can be harmful to you, your loved ones and your pets.

Ummm...Thanks But No Thanks?! How to Give the Perfect Knitted or Crocheted Gift (and Avoid the Heartbreak From Giving an Ugly Sweater!)

Wed, 02 Sep 2009 05:31:00 GMT

We all have had it happen to us...we are given the gift of a hand knitted or crocheted sweater and we have to pretend we like it when we really think it is the most hideous thing we have ever seen!

To avoid repeating this horrible "tradition" I have the following recommendations:

What is your recipient's gender and age? (ie. Teenagers are incredibly picky about their clothes and most men are hard to knit for...remember the boyfriend's sweater curse?!)
What colours does your recipient wear mostly? (ie. Do not pick a bright yarn for someone who wears dark or muted colours all the time)
Does your recipient need heavy clothes? (ie. There is no point in making a heavy coat for someone who lives in a year-round hot climate)
Does your recipient have allergies? (ie. You would not want them sneezing or itching every time they are in the same room as your gift)
If you are making something for a child, then have you picked a yarn that is durable? (ie. toys and clothing will be treated roughly so you want to make sure your gift lasts)
Will your recipient mind high maintenance items? (ie. Will they mind having to hand wash a cashmere or angora jumper?)
Is your recipient a vegan or conscious about the environment? (ie. Some people do not wear animal fibers so it would not be wise to give them a wool jumper!)

If you keep these questions in mind when you choose your yarn and project, you will avoid accidentally making something that is unliked. You will be spending time making this gift so you do not want it to be shoved into drawer to never see the light of day again. With this in mind, I would make one last suggestion....try to make gifts with smoother yarns in a single shade as your recipient may not like multi-colour, overly fuzzy textured projects! (In other words...keep it simple and you are less likely to make an ugly gift!)

Let's Break the Ugly Sweater Habit! (BTW...I am still scarred from the ugly jumper my auntie gave me for Christmas when I was about 10...it was this horrible thing that had a tight turtleneck and was white with fluorescent jellybeans all over it...it was so gross that I shudder thinking about it now!)

So Many Yarns! How Should I Choose One? Part Two

Thu, 27 Aug 2009 03:59:00 GMT

Still staring at your stash trying to decide what yarn to use for your project?

With your project idea in mind and whether your stitches will be simple or complex (so you know whether to choose from your "textured" section of your stash or your "smooth" section of your stash), now consider the following:

Look at the thickness of the yarn and choose one that is appropriate (For example, do not pick a 2 ply lace weight yarn for making a massive afghan or you may hate knitting and crocheting so much by the end of it that you will never make anything ever again!)
Look at how much (i.e. the length) of the yarn you have available (For example, do you only have 4 skeins of a yarn you want to use? This may not be long enough for a long sleeved, intricate jumper)
If you are using a specific pattern, make sure your yarn fits around the required gauge for your project (Or you may find the yarn is just not suitable or you may have to rework the entire pattern to make the yarn fit)
Check the dye lots of your yarn. If they are all the same then no worries...but if they are different you need to blend them together to avoid any "uneven" issues in your finished project)

Now that you have narrowed down your choices, pick the one you love the most to use (unless you are knitting your project for someone else...there is more to consider for this....we will discuss this "delicate" topic next!)

So Many Yarns! How Should I Choose One? Part One

Tue, 11 Aug 2009 06:46:00 GMT

So many of us wander into our yarn shop only to fall into yarn lust with so many yarns that we wind up filling our stashes to the brim and never know which project to do with which yarn we have. So I thought it would be good to go over how I choose yarns from my stash to use in the project I want to do.

To start with, ask yourself "Do I have my pattern or project idea?" If you do then I suggest following two simple guidelines:

If your pattern is full of fancy stitch work, then choose a simple yarn
If your pattern is full of simple stitch work, then go ahead and use a fancier yarn

Why should you consider this? Well, I think if you are going to spend a lot of time working on beautiful lace or cable work, then do not hide it behind fuzzy, furry yarns. Why hide the fabulousness of your project with too much texture? Or if you are making something really simple, then why not jazz it up with a spectacular textured or fuzzy yarn?

Have A Laugh!

Thu, 30 Jul 2009 05:11:00 GMT

I am luckily getting back into my knitting now that things are calming down with my little 3 1/2 month old. There are so many projects and I just cannot decide which one to start with! This is the longest break from knitting and crocheting that I have ever had!

Anyways, as I was looking through all my pattern books to get some inspiration, I popped my little guy down in his swing with some Playhouse Disney on to give my arms a rest, and I heard the cutest joke...

What do you get when you cross a kangaroo and a sheep?

A wooly jumper!

(Ok, I know it's corny but it made me smile so I thought I would pass it on!)

Synthetic Yarns Made By Man

Thu, 16 Jul 2009 01:53:00 GMT

To completely look at types of yarn available we have to remember the synthetic yarns. Synthetic yarns are created from minerals, metallic fibres, rubber fibres and other man-made materials. They are chemically processed to create different lengths of fibres or textures.

The most widely available synthetics include acrylic, rayon, nylon, polyester and spandex.

Acrylic: This has to to be the most common synthetic yarn available. It imitates natural wool so it makes a good substitute yarn. Acrylic is easily manipulated so it is used in creating lots of textures that natural fibres cannot produce.

Rayon: This yarn actually originates from a natural fibre but it is chemically processed to create filaments and the resultant yarn fibres.

Nylon: This is a fibre that is not elastic so it retains shaping great and washes with ease. It is commonly used to strengthen natural fibres in blend yarns

Polyester: This is very similar to nylon with retaining shape but is more comfortable to wear. I just cannot help but picture leisure suits from the 70s when I hear the word "polyester."

Spandex: This very elastic fibre is rarely seen in yarns but if it is you will know the yarn has a great elasticity which makes it perfect for fitted garments.

I know the current trend is away from synthetics and we are using eco-friendly and natural fibre yarns more and more....but we cannot discount the use of synthetics for some of those great novelty yarns and embellishments that we love.

Veggie Yarns: Wonderful Yarns From Plants

Wed, 15 Jul 2009 07:16:00 GMT

Since we are all wanting to be environmentally friendly, I thought it would be fun to look at the great range of "veggie" fibres available.

Plants have been used just about forever for making fabric. Cotton is one we are all familiar with but recently the yarn market has been flooded with plant based yarns such as soy, bamboo and banana tree fibres.

Plant based yarns include:
Bamboo · Corn · Cotton · Flax (Linen) · Hemp · Pineapple · Raffia · Ramie · Sisal · Soy

I love using plant yarns like bamboo because they are from a renewable resource and they naturally degrade over a long time without any pollutants. I find the one disadvantage is that many yarn manufactures price some of these yarns at very high prices which makes animal yarns a better option for your projects. I am hoping that we can find more of these yarns at cheaper prices to bring into our product range since we love using them ourselves.

I personally love bamboo and hemp yarns. I have found that ramie and sisal are both too stiff for my knitting and crocheting. Of course linen and cotton are fabulous for spring and summer projects.

The Wonderful World of Animal Fibre Yarns

Fri, 12 Jun 2009 08:13:00 GMT

Sorry for the brief break in my blogs....I have been incredibly busy with my (almost) 8 week old boy. Motherhood is amazing and I am loving every minute...but I am very sleep deprived which means my blogs are towards the bottom of my "to do list."

With animal yarns we have a great array of fibres to choose from. Our search has located the following possibilities:

Alpaca: This is that great animal that is similar to a llama and is commonly found in the higher altitudes of South America. The yarn comes in over 50 natural colours. One big difference between an alpaca and a llama is the shape of its ears!

Angora Goat (aka Mohair): You can read about this one in this month's addiction of the month. The angora goat was first mentioned in historical text from the time of Moses at about 1500 BC. The softest angora goat fibres are found on the younger animals as the fibres thicken over their lifetime.

Angora Rabbit: Cute furry bunnies make for some incredibly soft yarn! This is one of my favorites to knit with but it makes my husband sneeze because so many fibres get in the air when I am knitting! I find the best angora yarns are actually blended with a bit of wool...but the halo on 100% angora yarns is the best on a special cardigan project!

Bison (aka Buffalo): This is yarn from the animal found on the Great Plains of North America. I have not had the pleasure of knitting with it yet...but hopefully I will soon!

Camel: Camel yarn is very similar to merino wool. It is a very warm and resilient fibre.

Cashmere (of course!): Need we explain this one? (Teehee...)

Chiengora: This is yarn made from dog hair. It is an unusual idea but I have seen some incredibly soft and warm items made from the dog hair. The undercoat of a husky (and I am also guessing other "cold" area dogs like the malamute, etc) is very soft and knits into a lovely scarf that will keep you very warm. I have felt them and they are incredible. Dog hair was actually used by the Navajo Native American tribe for making clothing and blankets.

Llama: Just like our alpaca friend but with a different shaped pair of ears!

Possum: This is yarn from the New Zealand possum which is a unique species...so do not get it confused with the North American Opossum. Read our past addiction of the month page for a great article on why this is an eco-friendly yarn to knit with.

Qiviut: This is from the muskox and makes for a very resilient yarn. It does not shrink in hot water like other animal fibres do. The fibres are taken from the softer undercoat and I have heard knits up beautifully.

Silk: This is not to be confused with spiders! The silk used in textiles is from the moth caterpillar. It makes for a great lightweight summer or spring project!

and we cannot forget...Wool which does not need any explanation. There are several types of wool which are all give great stitch definition and knit with a great hand!

Now that you see the great range of animal fibre yarns available, you should put your acrylic yarn away and try something much softer and natural!

If we have forgotten any please add them in the comments. We are always looking for the unique and unusual!

Some Useful Yarn Things To Help Us Understand How We Have So Many Amazing Yarns

Fri, 15 May 2009 10:05:00 GMT

What can be used as a yarn?

You can pretty much use anything that is flexible, or pliable enough to wrap around a needle or hook and hold stitches without falling apart. This encompasses a whole range of things from the ordinary to the unique.

What is the difference between fiber, yarn and fabric?

Fibre: Strings or filaments that can be spun together

Yarn: Fibres spun together into one useable strand

Fabric: The result of worked yarn (whether by knitting, crochet, weaving, etc)

What does it means when someone says a yarn has a good hand?

Often, someone will say a yarn knits with a good hand. This just means that the yarn feels great and is easy to work with as it is made into a fabric. A yarn will not have a good hand if it tangles easily, breaks easily or if you struggle heaps with it as you work your project.

Why are some yarns smooth and some yarns bumpy in appearance?

The appearance of a yarn all depends on the fibre used and its processing. Some yarns are obviously "fuzzier" and will therefore not be as smooth in appearance. For example, angora will always be heaps fuzzier than a wool yarn. Novelty yarns are usually a combination of lots of different fibres or materials that can be bumpy or smooth...making the resultant fabrics very unique. These yarns are always fun to try, but many may not give you good stitch definition.

Slub yarns are a great yarn where one ply is spun tightly while a second ply is allowed to stay uneven. Crepe yarn is a slub yarn that has tiny "lumps" whereas boucle yarn has big "lumps" of the uneven ply.

Eyelash or fur yarns have "bits" that hang off the main ply of yarn. These "bits" stick off the worked fabric giving it a furry appearance.

Chenille is a term used to describe a particular process in which the yarn is made. It is usually cut from a specially woven fabric. It has short lengths of fibres placed between two core fibres which are then twisted together. The short fibres stand at right angles to the core fibres which give the yarn its characteristic texture and softness. Because of the way it is produced chenille fabric will look different in one direction compared to another and the fabric does not have much give. Chenille yarns also twist when knitted because of the yarn construction....this is why I would not recommend a chenille yarn to someone who is just learning to knit. But chenille projects are one of my favorites because they are so soft and warm in the winter!

Banana Yarn: A Great "Green" Silky Yarn

Mon, 21 Sep 2009 06:34:00 GMT

This month’s addiction is the fabulous environmentally friendly BANANA YARN. Knitter's Addiction has sourced this yarn from a small community in Nepal. The lovely women of this community make this yarn as well as our great sari silk yarns.

Banana fiber yarn has the luster of silk and a soft, papery feel. Every time I play around with a skein, I am amazed that it comes from the banana palm tree! I have knitted a few swatches and I find this yarn very easy to work with. The knitted fabric is silky and feels cool to the touch. I think this yarn would make great summer sweaters because it does not seem to trap any heat against the skin. To me, banana yarn is reminiscent of a rayon yarn.

Surprisingly, banana trees were the "original" cotton used for many centuries. Once cotton was made more affordable and readily available, banana fabrics seemed to disappear. Banana fiber yarn has come back in fashion because it is a renewable, sustainable, environmentally friendly yarn.

How do we get the fibers?

The process of making this yarn involves at least 3 women. The first woman prepares the fibers. The decaying layers of the tree stalk are harvested to remove the fibers through water soaking. So only the aged bark is used and the rest of the tree is left alone to grow. During the soaking, the chlorophyll structures are dissolved and all that remains is the cellulose fibers. These fibers are then crushed by hand to soften them up for spinning on a traditional charka wheel. Once the fibers are sorted and spun by a second woman, the yarn is then hand dyed in brilliant colours by a third woman...the banana fibers just saturate with colour brilliantly! This woman then also puts the yarn into skeins that are ready to sell.

There are actually three layers in the decaying bark of the banana tree:

The outer layer which is the toughest and is usually used for weaving items
The middle layer
The inner layer which are the silkiest fibers that are used for spinning yarns and making fine clothing

Your purchase of our banana fiber yarns helps this Nepalese community and encourages fair trade. The women that make these yarns earn a fair price for their hard work so that they can support their families and educate their children. Another great thing about their efforts is that they are keeping a traditional art alive. It would be sad to see such amazing handiwork disappear...so using this yarn helps keep these skills and traditions going.

Tips for using Banana Yarns:

Since every skein varies from the dyeing process, it is best to use 2 skeins at once in your knitting....this will keep it more even looking.
You can play around with gauge/tension because the thickness of the strand can vary within each skein. This variation is due to the hand spinning technique the women use. I have found that a size 6mm-8mm needle works really well and the fabric created has a lovely drape similar to most of our summer fabrics.
Like sari silk yarns you must be prepared to come across the odd knot or a little debris...when you do come across anything like this you just have to think of all the women who have touched this yarn and you will immediately feel connected to them. I always wonder what each skein's story is!?

Since you know banana yarn is environmentally friendly and each skein purchased helps a Nepalese community...you can't help but become addicted to this yarn!

Animal, Vegetable or Mineral? The Many Types of Yarn to Craft With

Sat, 02 May 2009 10:42:00 GMT

Yarn is a very broad term. A simple definition for yarn is a continuous length of intertwined and interlocked fibres. But we all know that yarn is a bit more complex for knitters and crocheters. There are so many types of yarn which vary in thickness, colours, textures, etc. Yarns can be classified by ply, weight, purpose, source fibre, texture, colour and pattern.

The simplest classification that I give the many types of yarn is whether they are animal, vegetable or mineral. The first two are obvious but the mineral is what I use for the many synthetics that are available. (I guess you call tell I enjoy old classic shows like the Pirates of Penzance?!)

There are many yarns which are a combination of these different types. Combining one fibre with another type of fibre is one way manufacturers can improve the quality or strengthen the resultant yarn. It is also another way of making a luxury fibre available at a cheaper price. For example, angora yarn is usually a combination of angora with another fibre such as wool. The angora/wool combination is used to create a more stable yarn that retains the wonderfully soft quality of the 100% angora yarn yet does not shed as easily.

Over the next few blogs I am going to look at some fabulous types of yarns available which are animal, vegetable and mineral in origin. I will also look at the range of great eco-friendly yarns that are available and growing in popularity as we become more conscious of the state of the world.

1st Addiction: YARN...2nd Addiction: CHOCOLATE

Sat, 02 May 2009 10:29:00 GMT

In the spirit of Easter bunnies and Easter chocolate I thought I would quickly point out the great reasons you should indulge yourself this weekend with some delicious chocolate....

Scientists say that dark chocolate is good for your heart...so eat some withouth feeling guilty! For those of you who want to know how this is possible...chocolate is full of antioxidants which help prevent heart disease and cancer. The darker the chocolate the better it is for you!
Eating chocolate makes your body release endorphins which are the "feel good" chemical in your body. They make you feel great and are a natural pain reliever (I think buying a fabulous yarn and working on my knitting does this for me too!)
Science has shown that eating 50g of chocolate a day helps fight off the effects of chronic fatigue (I find that I can always knit even when I am exhausted...so yarn must have the same effect too)
Science has also shown that chocolate contains a natural cough suppressant....so if you are fighting off a nasty cough try some chocolate!
There was also another study which suggests that chocolate eaters may live longer than those that do not eat chocolate
Darker chocolates do not affect your cholesterol levels like milk chocolates do...so if you must be health conscious this weekend then go ahead and indulge in just a little dark chocolate.
Chocolates have yet to be proven to cause tooth decay

Most of us try really hard to avoid sweets and chocolate...but I think for one day we can all indulge just a little! It is like when you find a great yarn that you just have to have...you have to be "bad" sometimes and give in to that craving...how else will our yarn stashes get filled??!!

Happy Easter From Our Family To Yours!

Possum Yarn: Unique and Eco-Friendly

Mon, 21 Sep 2009 06:29:00 GMT

New Zealand possum yarn is a fabulous new addition to our product range this month. It is incredibly soft and is up to 40% warmer than wool.

Many people who live outside of Australia and New Zealand may not know much about the possum. If you live in North America you may be thinking it is the animal known as the Opossum...but they are actually completely different animals. The first photo below is the North American Opossum and the second photo is the Possum found in Australia and New Zealand.

The possum in New Zealand is wrecking havoc on its fragile, native eco-system. It was originally introduced in the 1830s to establish a fur industry (so even though it is called a New Zealand possum...it really is not from New Zealand). Initially, about one hundred possums were brought over from Australia because their furs were found to be one of the softest in the world. When demand fell and the industry stopped, the animals were just released into the countryside.

The population of possum quickly increased and were labeled a national pest in 1936. Their numbers are now considered to be of epidemic proportions as they cover over 92% of the country and number well over 9 million. It is an astounding population number considering that New Zealand is home to only 3.5 million people and 50 million sheep.

Possums have no natural predators in New Zealand and have put many other species under threat because they are destroying the natural habitat. Since they do not have a natural predator, the possum has been able to grow bigger and reproduce at a very high rate. Possum are native to Australia where they do have natural predators, so they are naturally controlled in Australia and are not causing the same problems.

New Zealand possums munch and eat their way through eggs, young birds and about 21500 tonnes of vegetation nightly. The possum is actually quite aggressive and will fight if disturbed.

Many trees, plants and birdlife (ie. the Kiwi bird and the Pohutukawa) are under serious threat of extinction because of the possum. It is feared that over 70% of New Zealand's extinctions are from the habitat loss caused by the possum and this destruction is continuing. The World Wildlife Fund even sanctions the use of possum fur as a means to controlling this precarious threat.

The only way to control the possum numbers is through selling possum products. Every possum removed means a little less native habitat is destroyed and the native animals have more of a chance at survival.

In an ideal world, this animal would never have been introduced into New Zealand. But it was and it now must be controlled before it is too late and the eco-system of New Zealand is completely and forever destroyed. You may wonder whether they can just move the animal back to Australia? Well it is not possible because over time the possum in New Zealand have actually grown in size in comparison to their Australia relative and because of their aggressive nature they would wipe out the native possum species in Australia. ((As an aside here...a lot of native Australian possums are actually an endangered species))

Possum yarn is actually similar to polar bear fur, but has one important difference. Possum fur was adapted to climates that were much warmer and actually dispels heat (versus trapping it like polar bear fur does). The fibres are actually quite short so it has been found that a better yarn is produced if it is mixed with quality merino wool. This ensures that the possum fibres best qualities are retained. You will find that the knitted fabric made with possum yarn is wonderfully soft, keeps your warm in cool weather and cooler in warm weather. The fibres actually even dry quicker than most fibres.

Care of your possum yarns is very easy. Hand washing is the best method to ensure you do not accidentally felt your project. You may want to read my blog on How to Care For Your Lovely Cashmere as the instructions for possum yarn are the same.

Possum yarns are incredibly durable and will last a very long time (the fibres naturally resist pilling and remain incredibly fluffy over time). You can easily use this yarn in many knitting and crochet projects. If you are interested in a particularly hand dyed colourway please ask us as we can always do special orders for you.